Portmeirion in Wales

Tuesday, 3 June 2025 - 11:00 am (CET/MEZ) Berlin | Author/Destination:
Category/Kategorie: General, Hotels
Reading Time:  6 minutes

Piazza © flickr.com - Mike McBey/cc-by-2.0

Piazza © flickr.com – Mike McBey/cc-by-2.0

Portmeirion is a folly tourist village in Gwynedd, North Wales. It lies on the estuary of the River Dwyryd in the community of Penrhyndeudraeth, 2 miles (3.2 km) from Porthmadog and 1 mile (1.6 km) from Minffordd railway station. Portmeirion was designed and built by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis between 1925 and 1975 in the Baroque style and is now owned by a charitable trust. It has served as the location for numerous films and television shows, most famously as “the Village” in the 1960s television show The Prisoner.

Many of the buildings within the village are listed by Cadw, the Welsh historic environment service, for their architectural and historical importance, and the gardens are listed, at Grade II*, on the Cadw/ICOMOS Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest in Wales.

Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, Portmeirion’s architect, denied repeated claims that the design was based on the fishing village of Portofino on the Italian Riviera. He stated only that he wanted to pay tribute to the atmosphere of the Mediterranean. He did, however, draw on a love of the Italian village stating, “How should I not have fallen for Portofino? Indeed, its image remained with me as an almost perfect example of the man-made adornment and use of an exquisite site.” Williams-Ellis designed and constructed the village between 1925 and 1975. He incorporated fragments of demolished buildings, including works by a number of other architects. Portmeirion’s architectural bricolage and deliberately fanciful nostalgia have been noted as an influence on the development of postmodernism in architecture in the late 20th century.

The main building of the hotel and the cottages “White Horses”, “Mermaid”, and “Salutation” had been a private estate called Aber Iâ (English: Ice estuary), developed in the 1850s on the site of a late 18th-century foundry and boatyard. Williams-Ellis changed the name (which he had interpreted as “frozen mouth”) to Portmeirion: “Port-” from its place on the coast; “-meirion” from the county of Merioneth (Meirionydd) in which it was sited. The very minor remains of a mediaeval castle (known variously as Castell Deudraeth, Castell Gwain Goch and Castell Aber Iâ) are in the woods just outside the village, recorded by Gerald of Wales in 1188.

In 1931 Williams-Ellis bought from the estate of his uncle, Sir Osmond Williams, Bt (1849-1927), the Victorian crenellated mansion Castell Deudraeth with the intention of incorporating it into the Portmeirion hotel complex, but the intervention of the war and other problems prevented this. Williams-Ellis had always considered the Castell to be “the largest and most imposing single building on the Portmeirion Estate” and sought ways to incorporate it. Eventually, with support from the Heritage Lottery Fund and the European Regional Development Fund as well as the Wales Tourist Board, his original aims were achieved and Castell Deudraeth was opened by the Welsh opera singer Bryn Terfel as an 11 bedroom hotel and restaurant on 20 August 2001, 23 years after Williams-Ellis’s death.

© flickr.com - Mike McBey-cc-by-2.0 Piazza © flickr.com - Mike McBey/cc-by-2.0 Round House © flickr.com - Mike McBey/cc-by-2.0 Town Hall © Wolfgang Sauber/cc-by-sa-3.0 Portmerion Hotel © Tom Parnell/cc-by-sa-4.0 Watch House © Aderixon/cc-by-sa-3.0 © Zoltan sos/cc-by-sa-4.0 © Llywelyn2000/cc-by-sa-4.0 Battery Square © flickr.com - Mike McBey/cc-by-2.0
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Battery Square © flickr.com - Mike McBey/cc-by-2.0
Architecture critic Lewis Mumford devoted a large part of a chapter of his 1963 book The Highway and the City to Portmeirion, which he called

an artful and playful little modern village, designed as a whole and all of a piece … a fantastic collection of architectural relics and impish modern fantasies. … As an architect, [Williams-Ellis] is equally at home in the ancient, traditional world of the stark Welsh countryside and the once brave new world of “modern architecture.” But he realized earlier than most of his architectural contemporaries how constricted and desiccated modern forms can become when the architect pays more attention to the mechanical formula or the exploitation of some newly fabricated material than to the visible human results. In a sense, Portmeirion is a gay, deliberately irresponsible reaction against the dull sterilities of so much that passes as modern architecture today. … [I]t is prompted by [the] impulse … to reclaim for architecture the freedom of invention — and the possibility of pleasurable fantasy — it had too abjectly surrendered to the cult of the machine.

Mumford referred to the architecture as both romantic and picturesque in Baroque form, “with tongue in cheek.” He described the total effect as “relaxing and often enchanting” with “playful absurdities” that are “delicate and human in touch”, making the village a “happy relief” from the “rigid irrationalities and the calculated follies” of the modern world.

The houses Anchor, Arches, the hotel building, Lady’s Lodge, the inside of the Pantheon and the vaulted ceiling of Gate House are decorated with murals and frescoes by the Frankfurt-born artist and friend of Clough Williams-Ellis Hans Feibusch.

Portmeirion Town Hall is a grade I listed building, incorporating stonework and the Hercules Hall from the demolished Emral Hall in Flintshire. Many other buildings and structures within the village have their own listings.

Read more on List of buildings and structures in Portmeirion and Portmeirion, visitwales.com – Spotlight on Portmeirion, Wikivoyage Portmeirion and Wikipedia Portmeirion (Smart Traveler App by U.S. Department of State - Weather report by weather.com - Global Passport Power Rank - Travel Risk Map - Democracy Index - GDP according to IMF, UN, and World Bank - Global Competitiveness Report - Corruption Perceptions Index - Press Freedom Index - World Justice Project - Rule of Law Index - UN Human Development Index - Global Peace Index - Travel & Tourism Competitiveness Index). Photos by Wikimedia Commons. If you have a suggestion, critique, review or comment to this blog entry, we are looking forward to receive your e-mail at comment@wingsch.net. Please name the headline of the blog post to which your e-mail refers to in the subject line.




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